SpidersManiac Life

  Differences in Rearing: Arboreal, Terrestrial, or Fossorial Tarantula?   Most hobbyists start with docile terrestrial species. However, tarantulas are divided into three main types based on their lifestyle, each requiring a completely different approach to terrarium setup and care.   1. Terrestrial Species   This is the most popular group (e.g., Brachypelma, Acanthoscurria). Terrarium: Wider than it is tall. Emphasis on the floor surface area. Substrate: Thick (5-10 cm) so the spider can dig a shallow burrow. The substrate should be dry or moderately moist. Hideout: Absolutely essential; they often use ready-made ones (cork bark, coconut shell). Risk: Abdomen rupture from falling from a height.   2. Fossorial/Burrowing Species   These spiders spend most of their lives in deep, self-dug burrows (e.g., Haplopelma, Pterinochilus). They primarily come out at night in search of food. Terrarium: Tall. Substrate depth is important. Substrate: Extremely thick, a minimum of 15-25 cm of moist, compacted substrate (coconut fiber mixed with clay or sand) to maintain the burrow's structure. Hideout: The spider digs it itself. You can facilitate its start by placing a small tube or a piece of bark vertically in the substrate. Care: The most important aspects are the humidity of the deep substrate layers and the absence of drafts.   3. Arboreal Species   These spiders spend their lives in trees, building web nests in their crowns or hollows (e.g., Poecilotheria, Psalmopoeus). They are characterized by a slender body and long legs. Terrarium: Vertical! Height is crucial, e.g., 30x30x40-50 cm (width x length x height). Equipment: Branches, pieces of cork bark placed vertically, and plants that allow the spider to climb and build a suspended hideout. Ventilation: Very good, often extensive, ventilation is essential to prevent mold and stagnant warm air at the top. Temperament: They are usually much faster and shyer than terrestrial species. Remember: Transitioning to arboreal or fossorial species means moving to a higher level of husbandry, requiring a more thorough understanding of the specific species' needs. Male or Female? Advanced Methods for Sexing Tarantulas from Molt   For a hobbyist, especially someone planning to breed, accurate sex determination is crucial. Females live much longer (even 15-25 years), while adult males live only a few months to a few years after their final molt. The most reliable method is molt analysis.   Molt Analysis (The Gold Standard Method)   This method is considered the most accurate and involves finding two key structures in the shed exoskeleton of the spider's abdomen. Molt Preparation: The molt must be whole, not torn, especially in the area where the abdomen connects to the cephalothorax. Gently unfold and moisten the molt, e.g., in water, to make it pliable. Structure Location: The cut piece of the abdominal molt is viewed from the inside, at the point where it was attached to the spider's body. Searching for the Spermatheca (in Females): Female: Between the two upper plates (book lung covers), there is a structure called the spermatheca. It looks like a small sac, an opening, a fold, or a pair of tubes (depending on the species). This is where the female stores the male's sperm. Male: In males, this area is a smooth, uniform surface or only a delicate fold without a distinct, complex structure.   Other, Less Reliable Methods (for Adults)   Tibial Hooks (in Males): In adult males, small hooks appear on the first pair of legs. These are used to immobilize the female during copulation. Palpal Bulbs (on Pedipalps in Males): In adult males, bulbi (palpal bulbs) develop at the ends of the pedipalps – structures resembling small boxing gloves. These are used to transfer sperm. "Mirror" Method (Unfortunately Unreliable): Examining the underside of the abdomen, looking for a delicate indentation. This is a very imprecise method that can only be used as a preliminary clue. If you want certainty, always save the molts – they provide 100% confirmation.   3 Most Important Mistakes in Feeding Adult Tarantulas (Obesity and Refusal to Eat)   When a tarantula reaches adulthood, its dietary needs change drastically. Mistakes in feeding adult, long-lived females lead to obesity, shortened lifespan, and even molting problems.   Mistake 1: Feeding Too Often   Problem: Adult tarantulas have a very slow metabolism. Feeding them every one or two weeks, like a young sling, leads to abdominal obesity (it enlarges to unhealthy sizes). Overweight shortens life, burdens organs, and hinders the molting process. Solution: An adult female (especially slow-growing species like Brachypelma, Grammostola) only needs to be fed once every 2-4 weeks. Observe her condition – the abdomen should be proportionate to the cephalothorax, not enormous.   Mistake 2: Leaving Live Food for Too Long   Problem: Uneaten crickets, roaches, or mealworms can attack the tarantula, especially when it is in its premolt phase (it is defenseless then). They can injure or even kill it, which is a common cause of problems. Solution: If the tarantula does not eat the food within 24-48 hours, it should be removed. Never leave live feeder insects in the spider's terrarium before a molt!   Mistake 3: Ignoring Food Refusal   Problem: Hobbyists often panic when a tarantula refuses to eat. This is usually natural – it indicates that the spider is full or that a molt is approaching. There is no point in "coaxing" the spider to eat by force-feeding it. Solution: If the tarantula refuses to eat: Check if it is in premolt (darkening, lethargy). Try feeding it again in 2 weeks. If it doesn't eat for 2-3 months, check the conditions (temperature, humidity), but don't panic. Adult spiders can fast for many months. Transitioning to Old World Species: Venom, Urticating Hairs, and Precautions Transitioning from New World (NW, Americas) to Old World (OW, Asia, Africa) is a natural step for an intermediate hobbyist, but it requires a radical shift in approach to safety and handling. Key Difference in Defense   New World (NW): The primary defense is urticating hairs brushed off the abdomen (e.g., Aphonopelma, Brachypelma). The hairs are irritating and painful (especially in the eye), but the venom is usually mild. When threatened, an NW spider will first flee or "kick" hairs. Old World (OW): Lack urticating hairs. The primary and often first line of defense is potent venom and an aggressive stance. OW spiders are incredibly fast, can "teleport" in a fraction of a second, and often attack instantly without warning (e.g., Pterinochilus, Poecilotheria, Cyriopagopus).   Safety Rules (Must-Have)   "No Touch Rule": Never handle an OW tarantula without using long tweezers or another tool. Never take it out of the terrarium by hand. Barricade Method: When feeding or cleaning, always place the tarantula in a separate, securely closed container or block off accessible space with a piece of cardboard/plexiglass to prevent escape. Terrarium: Use terrariums with a double security system (e.g., lock and latch). Check that the ventilation is escape-proof – OW slings can squeeze through surprisingly small openings. Vigilance: OW husbandry requires 100% focus. Just a split second of inattention is enough for the spider to escape or bite. Remember that Old World husbandry is a test of your discipline, precision, and respect for a potentially dangerous animal.